Nepali language class with Sagar
Prayer flags fluttering in the evening sun
My new smiley family for the next weeks in the Sarangkot hills. The Timilsinas. Susanna, Bishnu, Bachha, Ama Tileu, Balram & Radha lighting a small fire to keep warm before bed
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My assistant Radha Timilsina helping to profile one of the Timilsina family homestays which are one of 50 we will work on in the Kaski district over the next weeks.
Many of the tourists visiting the homestays will be here for trekking and paragliding amongst these magnificent peaks. Three of the worlds top ten highest are in this region. Here is Machhepuchhre and the Annapurnas
Feeling a bit overdressed
The full Timilsina family mid 2008. Like my own, their father (centre) passed away from cancer a few months after this photo was taken. They took on many debts through his healthcare. Note Ama Tielu and eldest daughter (far right) wearing traditional red dress indicating their married status. Their eldest son (far left) has been workign abroad in Afghanistan & Iran for the last 5 years to financially support the family since.
Tomato pollytunnel like in many homestays
We spend too many hours on this bike to and from the rural villages. The roads are as challenging as any i have ridden off roading. Deeply rutted, dusty cliff side paths and boulder river beds. Eyes nose and mouth are clogged daily. In general, like in many asian countries the roads are very dangerous compared to the western world. Already I was in a minor car smash last week (im totally fine!) and every other day I hear or see accidents involving scooter and cars. Yesterday our chain came off but thankfully not at speed. You can never be too careful checking over rented vehicles over!
Spinach (saag) is eaten daily in large quantities with dhalbat which is great as it happens to be my favourite
There are never enough blessings for the vehicles here
Durbar Square, Kathmandu
Bacha in his afternoon swinging cot
Namaste. Another Timilsina family homestay. Like many having bees, chickens, goats, buffalo, veg garden and more to sustain their rural life.
Namaste Deeja
The corn is ground in a stone mill to make cornflour or boiled for eating
The constant workhorse (like all Nepalise women) Ama Tileu coarse grinding kodo (millet) which will be used for buffalo feed once per week.
Dhalbhat, spinach and buffalo milk for breakfast
It is harvest time in Nepal and these rice workers have travelled from western Nepal to work in the fields. They are paid little, sleeping above the cattle they had arrived with no blankets and few belongings. Here you can see the rice being spread out which is then fanned to separate the light dry husks from the grains. In the background the ox trample the left over rice grass to make it more palatable for the Buffalo which it will feed. The dry grass is then stored in large stacks.
The offers of dhalbat and tea are relentless and saying no thankyou seems to mean yes please get as much onto my plate as possible
Late night shopping, Kathmandu
Beware of other road users. Some are holy and some are not but many seem to be on a divine mission
92 yr old grandmother Mangali oversees the drying of the Kodo (millet )
Final approach to land. It seems every home has at least two or three hives
Kukhura (Chicken)
In the cold winter months, mustard oil is warmed on the fire with fenugreek seeds to be massaged into the baby's skin. Mustard oil to promote heat and fenugreek seeds to relax the body.
Ama Tileu with of photgraph of her late husband. Note that she now wears green coloured clothes to indicate being a widow.
Berlotti beans drying in the sun
A stack of rice grass that is used as buffalo feed
With my limited Nepali chocolate is always a good icebreaker. Although this baccha was a maybe a bit young for a snickers
The filling of yak butter candles at Swayambhunath stupa, Kathmandu
Traditional Nepalise momos. Tibetan influenced Nepali cuisine. Stuffed steamed deliciousness
Daily lunch and dinner is Dhalbhat. Rice and lentils cooked over wood fire
Ama Tileu Timilsina separating the curds and whey from the buffalo milk. Usually having a cup of fresh warm milk before bed
Visiting another homestay with the ama (mother) demonstrating the tossing &cleaning of wild rice
Bacha (baby) being massaged with the warming mustard oil by grandmother Tileu while his mother Bishnu heats his several layer of clothing
Coffee beans displayed by the farmer at this homestay
Radha taking notes on another homestay under the watchful eye of Machhepuchhre
A wealthier homestay in the Pumni Bhundi hills west of Pokhara
Swayambhunath Stupa, Kathmandu
Typical street front fruit and veg shop
Ranganath Timilsina family. One of the 50 possible homestays we are profiling
Waking rural life mostly follows the movements of the sun here. In bed by 9 and up at 6. This was the sunrise over Machhepuchhre. Shortly followed by a lemon and ginger tea. Good start to the day!
Another homestay, another smile
Swapping stories of our cultural differences before bed during another power cut
Younger faces from one of todays homestays. Nepalise girls generally get married between 18-25
How many spiders can you count? Yes.. too many!
Chickens chickens everywhere
